Reflection of Sorts

My adventures in Southeast Asia have come to a close for now. I realized that I haven't blogged about my experience in Thailand, so I will try to sum up the incredible memories I will carry with me from that two week trip.
We left Jaipur, heading to Delhi. Our van consisted of a mixture of students that were going back to the States, and some that were headed to Kerala (in the southern part of India). It was bittersweet- I was leaving a place I was just getting acquainted with, but knew I would soon be home.

Me and Magy decided early on in the program that we wanted to go to Thailand. She did most of the travel planning, and it was nice to relax and tag along. The consensus was that we were going to spend the majority of our time on the beach, decompressing from the chaos that had surrounded us since January. We stayed true to that agreement, and thoroughly enjoyed some rest and relaxation. The islands we visited were: Phuket, Kho Phi Phi, Kho Samui, and Kho Phangen. My favorite island was Kho Phi Phi. It was incredibly small, and no motorized vehicles were allowed. So people either walked or bikes around the island. Foreigners were prevalent, but I was surprisingly at ease being a tourist. I had tried for so long to integrate into a culture, that I found myself exhausted by the time my India travels were over. It was time to relax, wear swimsuits and skirts, go out at night, and forget about any restrictions that I faced in India.

In Kho Phi Phi, we beached it by day with drinks in our hand, and danced seaside by night. There were bars along some parts of the beaches, with music pounding and fire dancers providing entertainment. We met so many people at night- many from Australia, the UK, and some Americans (a few of which were using their unemployment to travel- good idea). Here are a few pictures from Kho Phi Phi:




Some highlights from the islands were:
1. Ladyboys! Some were more beautiful than natural-born women.


2. Getting a tattoo from a shady looking shop with cats running freely, and the artist drinking beer while working. Those boys were quite entertaining with their broken English, humor, and early 90's rap music.


3. Spending my 27th birthday on the beach, drinking pina coladas, going to a Muai Thai event, and dancing like crazy. This photo is me having my first drink on my birthday.


4. Motorbiking through the jungle, only to find a waterless waterfall (it was right before monsoon season), and almost getting major injuries from wiping out. Here is Magy's injury and a photo of our trek in the jungle.




Only one night was spent in Bangkok before heading on the long flight home. The city has alot to offer, and I would like to come back and explore. Here's a photo from property owned by parliament.


I was teary-eyed when our flight took off to Delhi. Thailand was so relieving for me, and the combination of people and scenery made me promise myself to return.

finishing up

The taxi comes on Friday morning to take us back to Jaipur. Lately, days have been going by pretty quickly. However, it hasn't always been this way- especially when the power is out and I'm sweating buckets.
Tomorrow is my last day with Astha. I finished my process report yesterday, and gave it to the director. I was a little nervous, but I think it turned out well. These final two days, I'll be playing a lot of cards, and attempting to speaking Hinglish with the staff. Today, I tried to teach Sita the words, 'gnarly' 'rad' and 'oh, he's yummy'- all useful words, of course. Her pronouncation is entertaining for the both of us.
This internship has been a great experience, even if I could only understand half of what was going on. Astha does amazing work, and it's refreshing to see people who are so passionate about their work.
Classmates from Jaipur came into Udaipur this weekend. There were a total of 10, so doing activities in a group can get challenging. It was fun though- lots of sitting, eating, OhNo (Uno), and shopping. We also took two rickshaws up to the Monsoon Palace. It was a trick getting up there, and we had to stop twice for the rickshaws to rest so they didn't overheat. One of them had a sub in it, and we got to listen to the Spice Girls- classy. We sat up there until sundown. Here's some photos for your viewing pleasure:




This weekend, I attended a going-away party for a fellow NGO'er, Alvero (from Spain). It's been comforting to have people around that have similar experiences- and that also like to enjoy a cold brew:) Shiveta (on the left) is in the same program as me, then there's Alvero, and Fizzy (from London)


I've gotten pretty close with auntyji. We both are coffee drinkers, so we'll sit and drink and chat. Last night, she came into my room with a gift. It was a traditional Rajasthani dress/sari she had bought for me. It has a proper name, but I forgot. It's deep red, with gold accents- pretty flashy. It's really beautiful, and was unexpected. Then came the other surprise- I was supposed to wear it and go to the photography studio they own. Yep, I was very 'Indian' yesterday. I put it on (with some help), then attempted to put my hair up. I came out, and could clearly see they weren't finished with me. I had auntyji's red bangles put on my wrist, massive earrings and a necklace, and a head wrap thingy. Then they took me downstairs where two women stood over me and did my makeup. Ummm... I have never had so much makeup on in my life. seriously. I felt like a doll. I didn't want to move for fear of messing up the material or my face paint. Auntyji was getting a laugh out of my awkwardness. These photos will not be circulating, but the story was worth sharing.
Thailand is the next destination. We leave Tuesday night and fly to Bangkok, then grab a flight an hour later to Phuket. From there, we are beach hopping, spending about three nights in each place. The last night, we're staying in Bangkok. Protests have settled down there, but it is still recommended not to linger in the city. I'm fine with a little revolutionary activity, as long as I can get to and from the airport.
I will try to post one or two more times while I am here, but I'm not sure what my internet access will be like, or I might just be lazy and laying on the beach.
Less than three weeks, and I am back on Minnesota soil. Uffda.

i have a runny nose.

and there are no tissues in India. Really- I've looked everywhere. I'm not sure what is the best way to care for my nose- farmer's blow? hanky? help people.
Oh well, I will take a runny nose over the sickness I had last week. I am now back to eating Indian food, instead of a bread diet.

This past weekend was pretty low key. Me, Shiveta (my roomie), and Farhad (an NGO worker) went to a bookstore in the old city. I love sitting on the ground staring at all the covers, and find myself only looking through the books with pictures- they're the best. Then a few of us went out to a restaurant next door from the homestay. It was so nice and clean; the best part was it actually had live music! We heard covers "Hotel California" and "Ring of Fire." The band wasn't that great, but I was pleased. Also, watched the movie, MILK with Sean Penn. Another great movie.

Here's a random photo of the view I see from the rooftop of one of my favorite restaurants in Udaipur.


Lately, I've been trying to put my life together- at least for the next three months (baby steps). My advisor at the U is probably very sick of my emails, but I think it's been worked out that I can start and finish my thesis this summer. It's a crazy move, considering I haven't narrowed down my topic or methodology. This would mean I would pretty much live at the U. I've actually never sat in the library, just stopped by for coffee. Time to get acquainted.

This week I am determined to get all my papers done, so I have some downtime next week. Some friends from Jaipur are coming to visit again, and we are planning to do the trip to Mt. Abu. I can't stop thinking about Thailand- I want to go swimming so bad. There's a pool at the club I workout at, but I can't see through the chemicals to the bottom. So, I quickly ruled out going for a dip.



This picture is of a little boy, Herard. His parents died, and the uncle of the homestay family has been looking after him. He gets a room above the garage, but is treated as a servant, and does not attend school. He always sits on the floor (he was waiting for the daughter of another servant that was washing dishes) It is strange to relax and drink a smoothie when he is probably just as warm as I am. He isn't offered one, rather, he clears the glasses from the table. uncomfortable. So now I don't take anything while he is here. This treatment is considered 'normal' in most households.
Child labor or helping keep a child off the street? I know where I stand, but will not use this blog to rant about politics.
I had to write about him in some way. He is a very sweet boy, and we exchange a little Hindi. I asked to take his picture today, and he has a great smile, but would look serious when he thought I would 'shoot the snap.'

The picture below is the result of mendi art done by a co-worker Sita (the giggly girl who always talks to me two inches from my face).

over the hump

The photo above is men giving their signature (a thumb print) to verify they have completed a day of work. If you have time, look up the government scheme, NREGA.

Wow. Time is going by quickly. Sometimes it doesn't seem that way, but overall, the days are moving along at a fast rate. Two weeks from today, I will be finished with my internship, then heading to Jaipur for four days of wrap-up and final presentations.
India- we will be parting soon. I'm not going to get into my feelings for this country quite yet. My time here isn't up. I am trying to soak in every rickshaw ride (which by the way, we had 12 women fit into one this morning. impressive, but hot), chaos of the old city at night, and of course, the nuzzling cows.
I have been going out into the field most days. By now, I have seen some of the women two or three times, and we are past the 'namaste' phase- we've moved onto hugging. I enjoy getting hugged because it is not common practice here. I didn't realize how much I have missed it.
Last week, I visited the most impoverished village I've seen yet. It was a section called Oden. I tagged along with two other Astha women. They went to talk to a group of women about ways to save money and start a joint account for the community. The money they earn from daily labor (which is at maximum 100 Rupees= $4) goes to the husbands. Drinking is a common problem in that area, so the money hasn't been going to support the family. The women were very receptive, and welcoming towards me.
Above is a photo of a little girl who was being really patient while we were meeting with the women under a tree.
The reality of poverty sinks in very quickly when I'm in the middle of children that are bloated from malnourishment or are continuously sleeping because they are too weak to play. I worry about what kind of future they will have. Each day I go out into the field with Astha, I build more and more appreciation for the work of the NGO.
This was at a school where kids are getting their daily government rations (three meals a day):

I have no idea how I will feel when I get back to the States. I do know that I will have a greater appreciation for the availability of opportunity. Also, I think material objects will be way lower on my list of importance. I feel more reassured that I got rid of most of my pocessions before I left.
While out in the field, I got braver with street food. When it's 110 degrees and there's sugar cane or pineapple juice stands in front of me- I'm gonna drink it. Problem is that ice has been used- ice that isn't made with filtered water. It was so hot last week, that I tried to ignore it. Bad idea. I have been pretty sick for the past four days. I think its is combination of the juices, water balls (I'll talk about them later), and sun. I have been feeling weak, and don't really care for eating anything. I got some meds yesterday for 13 Rupees (about 8 cents) that should help. By the way, written prescriptions aren't needed for anything- kinda crazy. I like that I can get medicine right away, without waiting at the doctor. My roomate's dad is a doctor in the States, so we just chatted over gmail, and he told me what to get. Auntyji also did some aerovedic technique on me this morning. All I know, is she found out I'm unbalanced- my right side is one inch longer than my left. weird. I'm still pretty out of it, so I've been sleeping alot.
Here's a photo of some street food (not usually the type I eat, but it looks gnarly):

I'm headed about an hour and a half out of Udaipur tomorrow for a village meeting. Hopefully, I'll see some of the women I've met. Then this weekend, we may head to Mt. Abu to explore, if my body will let me.
I will probably see this surpanch, Daki Bai tomorrow as well (photo also includes staff of the Hunger Project, another NGO):

Ah, I got to watch a movie in English the other day. I went to some electronics store and bought six movies on one disc for 90 Rupees ($1.80). The movie was Woody Allen's 'Vicky Christina Barcelona.' It was amazing on many levels. Check it out. Also, makes me want to go back to Barcelona real bad. Anyone have jobs hook-ups there?
Finally, a big “HI” to the One Stop crew! Miss you guys, and I'll come bug you when I get back.
Geoff and Tai- I'll be needing a hug.

India is hot.

I am sitting in the ASTHA office trying not to be a wuss, but my cheeks seem to be permanently red, and the power outages aren't helping.
I still haven't figured out the right clothes to wear- long pants and sleeves are too warm, but wearing short sleeves and capris has resulted in a mosquito feeding frenzy. Hope those malaria pills do their job.
Last week was very busy at the NGO, but I enjoyed myself. I got the chance to sit in on literacy training. Women of all ages where in the center for three days for intensive training. It was the third, and final round for these groups. I was basically learning right along with them- forming sentences and picking out letters. I find reading and writing Hindi is much easier than speaking it. I am still at the very beginning level when it comes to verbal communication, but have become quite skilled in conveying my thoughts with hand and facial motions.
Here's a photo from the literacy session:


Last Thursday I went with a colleague to a village six hours out of Udaipur. We took a lovely government bus that had no air, half cushioned seats, and people packed in like sardines. Throw in the smell of onions and body odor, and you have a very long busride. The roads are not maintained in the rural areas, so I found myself literally hanging onto the handle on the seat in front of me in an effort to brace myself for the massive bumps in the road. The purpose for the trip was to follow-up with women from a village to check on their literacy development. They had went through the trainings, and ASTHA wants to check and see if they continue with their studies. Many did quite well, and others were helped too much by their male family members. After a bit, we had to ask the men to leave because they were too much of a distraction.
I had my back faced to a corner of the room, without noticing what had filtered in behind me. Foreigners are very, well...foreign to villagers, so they tend to observe me closely. When I saw what happened, I had to take a picture (I tried to squeeze them all into the frame):


We made it there and back safely, so I consider the trip a success. I also had a great time getting to know Hemlata- my colleague. She is very sweet, and had many questions for me, and also filled me in on her secret boyfriend, whom she wants to marry. I learned alot about the marriage rituals from her. She seems to be in a minority here because she believes in marrying for love. I have talked to many others who still think that the parents should decide on a suitor; based on caste, economic status, and family.
Then we got deliriously tired of riding the bus, so I gave her a headphone, and we listened to my ipod (or “FM” as she kept calling it).
Two of my fellow MSIDer's came to visit me this weekend. Maggie and Anna are interning in Jaipur, and need a little time away. It was so nice to spend time with them. Carly was supposed to come, but needed to leave for work in the field, so the three of them are planning another visit here. We didn't do too many touristy things. They mainly wanted to relax. Udaipur is way more chill than Japiur- and less dusty and smelly. We did some shopping in the Old City, ate American, Thai, and Israeli food, and had some brews. Each time I see non-Indian food on the menu, I order it. I do love Indian food, but also need a change in my diet once and awhile.
We also went to a salon and got our hair did. They got hair cuts, and I got a hair oil. It's a combination of coconut and almond oil. Then they give a massage, and steam, then finally shampoo and condition. The total cost for this magicalness was $4US. Um, yes, I have found a Sunday tradition. The positive reaction that I got when I came back to the house made me realize how scrubby I've become. They looked surprised by the different, more cleaned-up version of me. That was the first time I've had my hair blow dryed or had product since January. Frankly, I'm not too concerned with makeup or hair while I'm here, but I'm also not above getting pampered a little.
Udaipur has more amenities than I expected. I am thankful that I have the opportunity to experience rural, village culture with my fieldwork, while also having conveniences available to me in the city. The salon and coffeeshop are places of comfort for me.
A gym two buildings down from my homestay just opened. So, I am now a member (for a month) of an Indian gym. Didn't expect that. I already feel much better. It gets too hot to do much activity outside, and with everything closing down at 10pm, I have alot of energy built up. The gym is small, but new. I found that my version of working out is strange to most others in the gym. The manager actually approached me this morning to check on me. He said he saw me get on two cardio machines, and was worried I would sweat too much. Uh..I thought that was the point. I told him I would be fine. My yoga pants and Converse are not normal attire here, but I don't know how women can work out in the pantsuits. That baffles me. They also have spin bikes there, which has made me real excited. However, just like any other place in India, there are men everywhere (as strange as it may sound, that's not something I'm excited about here). This morning there were five, male trainers wondering around, and only one other female working out. Oh well, I got my headphones and some good music.
Time to start the two papers due before the end of the week. MSID has the mid-internship meeting in Jaipur this weekend. More importantly, I get to see the girls again.
Here are some photos of Udaipur I took over the weekend:

Work

I am into my second week of work at the ASTHA. They are keeping me quite busy, and I am enjoying the experience overall. So far, I have been given my main process report project to be completed over the next month, traveled out into the villages for two days, and today is the start of a three day training session at the Center. I introduced myself to the group of thirty women today, and they only had one question for me- whether I was married or not. I got some strange looks when I told them I was 26 and unmarried.

There is something to do everyday, and my schedule is changing often. I no longer assume that things are understood between me and my co-workers because some things have already been lost in translation. So, I ask questions and get confirmations about twenty times a day.
The favorite part of my time so far has been the village work. I went along with a translator and another co-worker to interview female panchayats. They all come from the lower castes, and many had no knowledge about politics before they were elected. Many women are pushed to run for a panchayat seat by their husbands or other family members because they want their opinions to be heard in the political arena. The Indian government made it mandatory that 33 percent of the seats be reserved for women.
Each time we traveled to a home, I was offered curd and chach (it's supposed to help with the heat). However, there is something about warm dairy products in even warmer temperatures that does not appeal to me. They do not understand the concept of me saying 'nahi' (no), so in order to not offend them, I have made up an excuse that my doctor has told me not to have dairy. Yes, I know it's a lie, but it's the only way to get them to stop shoving it in my face. Instead of warm milk, I'm drinking massive amounts of chai.
These women were all very welcoming, and had just as many questions for me as I had for them. My Hindi is getting better, and I can understand a fair amount that is being said. It's the speaking part that is in need of practice.
The heat is becoming more intense, and while outside, I am either covering my head with a scarf, or searching for a spot in the shade. I have also discovered sugar cane juice- it's incredible. The sugar cane is literally crushed in front of me by some guy using a grinding machine, and poured into a glass. Most of the time I can get it all into my mouth without spilling (it's not wise to touch your mouth to the glasses, so I have to hold the glass a couple inches higher, and aim). The sugar helps deal with the heat, and is also a nice treat.
Udaipur has a large concentration on NGO's, and I have met some others working in town. Many hang out at a coffeeshop by my homestay because it has free wireless. I've met people from Sweden, Spain, the States, Switzerland, other parts of India, and Canada. It's comforting to have other people going through similar experiences.
I don't have too many pictures of the city, but hope to take some this weekend. Carly, Anna, and Maggy are headed here from Jaipur to visit, so we'll be taking a tour around town.
The pictures posted are from my trip into the field.
The woman on the left in the picture below is an elected wardpanch (look it up). She is part of a very strict caste and didn't leave her house since marriage. When she was elected, she said the first thing she had to do was buy shoes, because before she didn't travel, so shoes were not required. Now she travels to big cities for trainings with other women. It is rewarding to see how women from such sheltered upbringings can become empowered at any age, and in any region. ASTHA does not fight on behalf of the people. They provide the community with the trainings and resources to become aware of rights, and places the responsibility on the people to make change.

This month will go by quickly, and alot of papers need to be written. The Thailand ticket is booked. I will be there with my friend, Maggie for two weeks. We plan to go explore Phuket and the surrounding islands for a week. We are then heading east for more island time. The end of the trip will be in Bangkok. Then it's two days of travel- to the States by way of Delhi.
P.S. My homestay family felt the need for me to have a cell phone, so they are letting me use one of their old phones. All incoming calls/texts are free to me. So, if you are really missing me, here's the number: 9649471180. India's country code is 091 I think (that will need to go before the actual phone number).
I will try to figure out how to answer.

Udaipur

The second half of the program is now underway, and I think the best parts are yet to come. I finished my second day of interning with ATHSA. I am working in the Self-Governance Unit with three other employees and two interns. I am the only American intern, and am getting a crash course in Hindi, as my co-workers speak very little English. I was given my main task the first day. The personal project I have been assigned is to conduct research and compile a process report about two specific Panchaiyat members of village communities. Panchaiyats are elected village officials who work for the welfare of their own. Currently, 33% of these seats are reserved for women. I am going to look at the structure, challenges, and strengths, etc. I am off to the first village on Thursday, with an translator. Hopefully the interaction won't be too awkward and I can start to build a relationship with these women and obtain useful data. I'm feeling a little pressure because ASTHA wants to publish the findings in their annual report.
The staff there are really nice. The two female interns and I try to communicate as best we can, but mostly it ends up in strange looks or giggling. They are very sweet, and like to ask lots of questions. The other female worker is 24, and will be a translator. She also revealed to me today that she is engaged to be married through an arrangement. She has met her fiance only once, and will see him one more time before marriage. I asked her if she was happy, and she said 'yes.' Still don't completely grasp the idea of arranged marriages, but to each their own.
The city of Udaipur is a nice change from Jaipur. It is still large, but the traffic and dust are incredibly minimalized when compared to Jaipur. Also, the smells aren't as pungent because there aren't men peeing in every corner. I feel safer walking around here too because I don't feel hassled as much as before. This weekend I hope to explore the city more, and check out the lakes and temples on the hills surrounding the city.
One more thing. I had my longest Hindi conversation yet. It was today in a group taxi with a woman who had a gnarly front gold tooth. She pretty much sat on top of me, and then introduced herself. Once I proceeded to tell her my name, she reached for my leg, and started rubbing my tattoo. Then another lady joined in and was touching me. Strange, but I couldn't stop smiling. I managed to tell them where I got it, where I am from, where I work, and asked about their day. Then after about a minute, I was out of sentences. They didn't seem to mind and started talking more Hindi, so all I did was nod, and say 'tik hai' (means 'ok').
By the end of this month stay, I think I should be up to a two minute conversation.

Goa

Time for an update:
I am at my last day of class in the MSID building. We are just basically doing some last minute prepping for the internships. I leave tomorrow morning at 7:30 for Udaipur. Time has flown by, and the program is over in less than a month and a half. I am not sure about the internet availability, so posts may be more sporadic than they already are. Still no cellphone, I am going to try and manage. I guess I'm the only student without one, but I've survived this far.

Ok, on to the more exciting stuff: Goa. This is a magical place, and now I know where people go when they don't return from India. The atmosphere is Goa is so laid back. We arrived to a cute little hotel back in the woods. It was quaint, and Carly and I shared our room with geckos and a frog. Crawly creatures don't seem to bother me as much anymore. I've accepted that they are going to be living with me, so I don't bother them, and hopefully they won't jump on my face while I'm sleeping.

The Arabian Sea was a five minute walk from our hotel. There are beautiful beaches everywhere, which we could walk to, and then take a break at the beach shack for some beers and good food. We were beach bums pretty much all three days. My favorite beach was called "Spaghetti Beach." It has a large Italian population, and we made friends with an Italian hippie. He had been coming to Goa for the past 30 years, and had some great stories.

Holi was crazy cool. Me and Maggie rented a scooter, and everytime we would get caught in a traffic jam, kids would pelt us with color. I threw away three shirts and a pair of pants. My body is still stained with purple and pink color.
We went out dancing after the sun was gone. We had so much fun, and got to see dj's on the beach.

Our personal driver, Nani made sure we made it home safe every night. He was crazy, old, and kinda creepy, but was entertaining. I tried not to look at his eyes, as they were permanently bloodshot- I didn't ask questions, and we made it to our destinations.

So, I took some of my favorite pictures in Goa. However, I have ADD on planes, and was messing with my camera, I managed to accidentally delete over 100 pictures. So, the only ones left are from my little camera, and are of us girls at the clubs in the evening. I promise we actually did more than that.
Ok, gotta run finish up last minute paperwork. I'll write more later.

Jaipur

I realized I haven't posted a picture of my homestay family. So, there it is. The picture was taken at the wedding a couple weeks ago.

Now that I am finally starting to get used to the city, I'm leaving. It's a crazy place, and I'm thankful I've survived crossing the chaotic streets. Just when there were times when I thought I was gonna be smashed by a rickshaw or scooter, some divine intervention kept me alive. I still gawk at the elephants, camels, and overloaded jeeps with people hanging off the top, and the side (completely true). Even entire families, with groceries, fit on scooters. Child safety seats are nonexistent here. Every type of vehicle and work animal is on the same road. The biggest or one with the least to lose always has the right of way.
Tonight, a group of us went to the second Bollywood movie in three days. The dancing in these movies is so cheesily amazing to watch! I pretty much have no idea what they are saying, but go for the pictures, music, and simosas. Here's a taste (from the Billu Barber movie):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVfX2-oem98
Me and Carly walked up the road to meet friends to go to the movie. They were easy to pick out because there were about six auto rickshaws, five bikes, and a guy with a horse surrounding them. It's quite a scene anytime we need transportation. The first price quoted is always outrageously high, and I've learned to counter with a ¼ of the price. After some haggling, and walking away, they always follow and accept the offer. We opted for the horse taxi- this was a first. The driver was trying to impress us by whipping the horse to go faster, then he tried to get me to hold the reins. Umm, that was uncomfortable. I realized the other day when Carly said, “What the F@#k” to something random, and then it occurred to me that we have those moments at least three times a day. The horse ride was one of those moments.
I'm so used to bargaining, that I'm nervous I'll try to do it with taxis back home. It would be nice to get a better deal on the cab ride home from the bar, then stop to haggle for that bean and cheese burrito from Taco Bell.
Ah, one more story: we got a call Saturday that the 'piercing walla' was at our friends house. 'Wallas' are guys that walk up and down streets and shout out what goods they have to sell. I've seen mostly veggie guys, and some guy selling snake oil. Me and Carly went over to our friends house, and there were already a few friends sitting, waiting to get pierced. I guess he's pretty well known in the neighborhood, and some of the girls were brave enough to try his skills out. I think I'm done piercing all I want to pierce, so I was a spectator. Carly got her third ear piercing, Carolynn got her nose done, and Maggie got her upper lip pierced. This guy was old school, and just had a needle he cleaned, then he bent the metal with a not-so-new looking pliers once the piercing was through the skin. It was a little hard to watch. Nobody has infections yet, so maybe he knows what he's doing. Maggie is in the picture below.

This is the last week of classes, and after Holi, we are off to the internship sites. Many students are staying in or around Jaipur.
The program I will be working with is seven hours south in Udaipur. The organization is called ASTHA (www.astha.org). They run training sessions (literacy and other issue-based courses) for rural women. Once these women are trained, they then go back to their villages to teach other women. They are basically 'paying forward' the empowerment techniques they've picked up to educate other women. I'm super excited about the opportunity and ready to get started. Hopefully my choppy Hindi won't be too big of a hindrance. Usually the best way to learn a language is to be immersed in it, and I should get some good practice.
Holi is going to be celebrated in Goa. I'm headed there with five others on Sunday, and staying until Thursday. This Hindu holiday is a celebration of spring, and has something else to do with the gods- but I don't really know much about that. It's pretty much a big party where paint is thrown all over. We plan to get some squirt guns and fill them when we're down there. Goa is on the southwestern coast, and is a big beach destination. I'm ready for some sand and sea, and can't wait to kick back for five days. Swimsuits and dresses are acceptable, so the atmosphere should be more comfortable. It's a great opportunity to practice some Bollywood dances. This could get interesting.

The picture below was taken in Rishikesh on the Ganges. These are the girls I'm headed to Goa with.

Wedding and Rishikesh

I'm still a bit groggy from a four hour nap (got to Japiur at 6am this morning), but I'll try to write a little about the last few days. Back to Thursday night- the wedding. Yes, it finally happened, and was as over the top as I expected. February 19th is seen as the most auspicious day by Hindus. So that night, there were over 1,000 weddings in Jaipur alone. It was so cool to drive to the wedding and see about two each block. There were bands, elephants, horses, and massive amounts of lights lining the street. The sari's were so great. However, we were weary of sitting down for fear of becoming unwrapped. There was literally six feet of fabric. The housemaid helped me and Carly get dressed. We found out after the wedding that the little tops we wore were on backwards. That's the only part we did ourselves. opps. Anyways, back to the wedding itself. Weddings usually last five days. We were there on the actual wedding night, but the ceremony doesn't take place until well into the night, and most people don't stay. We stayed to see the bride presented. She was gorgeous in all red and gold. She was also covered in henna. She was constantly looking down, which I found out that is normal behavior for Hindus. It's intended to make her look pure and submissive. Binew, the aunt, told us that the marriage was arranged, and they had been on a couple dates. Arranged marriages are still very much the norm, and there are always pages of ads in the paper. I'm sure they were both a little apprehensive to be sharing a life with a person they hardly know.
The food and music were probably the best thing about the wedding. Indian-Chinese food is sooo good! They had rows of food, and Niveta was directing us on what we can and can't eat (she didn't want us getting sick again). Then onto the music- it was real loud and crazy. We joined the few little kids on the dancefloor. Then slowly, some more people came to join us. It was uncomfortable for a little while when we noticed we were being videotaped by cellphones- we stuck out because of skin color and actually dancing. It was a little hard to figure out what was 'appropriate'. However, we soon got over any reservations, it just felt good to dance and be out at night.

On Friday night, seven of us took a night bus to the town of Rishikesh. It was a 10 hour ride. We left at 10:30 that night, and the trip was pretty pleasant. I had the best cup of coffee since I got here at some roadside stop. The town is the biggest center in India for yoga. There was all kinds of characters walking around. I saw this guy in a loincloth sitting under a tree outside of town that looked like he was literally part of the tree. I was so tempted to take a picture, but I felt like he had some supernatural power, and could cast some sort of spell on me So, I passed on that. We also saw lots of foreigners. A Brazilian caught a cab with us to town, and we heard German, Swedish, and Spanish being spoken at breakfast. The Beatles hung out here for two months in the late 60's, so of course, they were advertising for tours.

The highlight of the trip was the Ganga (Ganges). It really is breathtaking. Our ashram balcony was right on the water. I was surprised because the water was so blue. I pictured a brown, littered stream. It may be that way in Varanassi or other bigger cities. We went on a hike totaling about eight miles, which three were uphill in search of a waterfall. When we got to the top of the hill, we found two women pulling bamboo-like sticks out of a stream. We were so sweaty, and couldn't complain about being tired if they can climb the same path and carry sticks! It was so nice to do something outdoors and be active, without breathing in fumes from the city streets.
One night, a few of us went to see a ceremony dedicated to Lakshmi on the river. There was a huge lit up statue, and tons of people with drums chanting mantras. It gave me goosebumps watching people going up to the water and receiving blessings. Their overwhelming emotions were clearly visible. I also purchased my favorite gift: rosewood beads that I had dipped in the Ganga. They are seed beads that are said to come from the tree that is associated with Shiva's tears (later petrified by the water into seeds). Ana and Carly also surprised me with an India patch for my bag- I was so excited because I have been unable to find one.
This trip was my favorite so far. Northern India is beautiful. I could see one of the holiest rivers in the world and look at the Himalayas while having banana pancakes- can't get any better than that. I could definitely spend more time there, and might consider heading north again after the program.
I am into the last two weeks of class. There's lots of homework to be done, and I'm staying in Jaipur this weekend to finish up. Then it's Holi, then onto the internship phase.

One Month In

I feel that the last blog was a little lacking. There are a few things that were worth noting that were left out, so consider this posting a continuation.

I got my first 'real' Indian busride out of the way. We caught a local bus from Pushkar to Jaipur (a 3 hour ride). Basically there are old, rickety buses parked in a lot with guys yelling out the destination from the driver's seat. Everyone packs into the bus like sardines, then when there's no more room to stand, the bus heads out. Luckily I got a seat, but you gotta make it look like you're taking up the whole seat. Otherwise, a seat meant for one will soon be occupied by two, which can also include an extra on a lap. It seems to be perfectly normal for men to sit on laps. There's no air, just the smell of sweaty people and countryside litter. At one point, the bus literally was turned off and switched into neutral to help ease the vehicle down a steep, winding hill. I didn't look out the window because I knew there was a big drop and no guardrails. Anyways, I survived, and only paid 90 Rupees (1.80US).


I thought of another reason I really enjoyed Pushkar- no horns. Car horns, bike horns, and rickshaw horns are constant in Jaipur. They are used to signal caution because they are coming. Well, in a city of over 3 million people, it gets loud. Sometimes I just want to yell out, “I see you!” Today, some guy in a car wasn't paying attention and almost ran into me and two friends. I guess it was a natural reaction for me to point and signal my frustration because Carly called me on it without my noticing.

Onto the clothing- it's amazing! I get overstimulated walking into a shop and just seeing all the colorful fabrics. One problem: I'm not that colorful or flashy. I've had a bit of a tough time finding my staple black, gray, brown, and green. I'm trying to branch out, but want to buy things I'll wear back in the States. The standard drill is to go in, pick out the fabrics, then take them to a tailor. Instead of doing a full-on Indian suit, I just like to get enough fabric for a corta (like a tunic with slits, but I can turn it into a dress later). So far, I've had about 4 made. With the fabric and tailoring, it costs around $5.00US. This is trouble. I'm getting a skirt made tomorrow. I think the tailor thinks I'm a little odd for not getting pants made (which look like genie pants). I've been living in leggings. I guess the men here aren't used to seeing legs (bare stomachs are perfectly fine), so I try to wear longer ones.

The rest of the night is dedicated to Hindi, which will last about 15 minutes. Then I'm checking out the ridiculous amount of bhangra music I just bought.

p.s. 'hi' mom. 'hi' dad.

Lagging on the blogging already.

Sorry people. Hmm, well this past week has been a busy one. Let me start off by saying- it is really not fun being sick in India. It's not enjoyable period, but then add the India aspect in, and it becomes really interesting. Today, there were five people missing from class (out of 15 total). This includes my roommate, Carly. Poor girl- she was given a mixture of yogurt (plain and strange looking) and rice. It was mixed together, and she was being watched by four members of the family and the cook. Wish I could have been there. I was ill for two days earlier, and ended up throwing up in an Indian toilet after being shown barrels of cow urine used as pesticides on an organic farm. I think the workers got a kick out of seeing my face turn white. Hopefully from here on out, getting sick will not be in my plans.
I have a fun fact: I was in an earthquake last Sunday. Too bad I wasn't aware of it. I guess it was about a 3 on the Richter Scale, and didn't do any damage.
Our class went to a rural area called Shekaweti last week. On the way, the car I was in lost a tire. Umm, that could have been bad, as drivers constanty play 'chicken' on the road at 70mph. whew. Anyways, the town had really amazing architecture and colorful, tiled palaces. The area is known for it's organic farms- hence the cow urine bit earlier. The style is even more conservative than Jaipur, and most women were wearing full burkas.


From Shekaweti, a group of us ventured to Pushkar. It was a beautiful city, free of car horns and beggars (for the most part). However, I was surprised to see so many non-Indian people wondering the streets. I guess many Israelis come there after the army to hang out. It was comforting and disappointing at the same time. I liked having the familiarity of western food (banana pancakes!) and the liberal atmosphere, but found that I enjoy feeling a bit unsure of my surroundings. We stayed at the Pink Floyd hotel, which ruled, and got to relax before a long week ahead.

I have to have my internship preference in by the end of the week. It's looking like Udaipur will be my new location. It's about 7 hours by train from Jaipur. There are two programs there that work with empowering women (mainly single, separated, and widowed) through literacy, and other issue based training. They also work alot with lobbying against child marriages- as Rajasthan has the highest percentage of child marriages in India (49 percent of girls ages 15-19 are married). I'm looking forward to the internship starting in three weeks, and even more excited about Hindi class ending.
I'll try to post more often. The wedding is this Thursday. Me and Carly have our saris laid out with no idea how to put them on.

Playing Tourist...

is exhausting.
Taj Mahal. Yep. I can now say, “been there, done that.” Just got back from a long weekend in Bharatpur and Agra. Nine of us ended up renting a van, and had a driver- which was the way to go. I probably would have ended up in some random town in the desert if we would've had to deal with the bus system.
Let me backtrack a little...
Friday night, a group of us went out to eat at McDonalds. It's so good here! I had the veggie burger and found out they deliver. Hell yeah! Totally going to take advantage of that service while I'm here. Then we went out to this 'pub.' It closes at 11pm. Oh well, I was able to order beer- still no PBR, but had some King Fischer. The waiters were dressed up like cowboys, and the dj kept playing Linkin Park and Enrique Inglesias. So, that was weird, but we managed to unwind a little.
Saturday, our first stop was at a Fatehpur Sikri. This fortress was built in 1569 by Moghul Emperor, Akbar. It was really huge, and the architecture was amazing and there is a mosque made of white marble and mother of pearl on the inside. The downside to this place was the harassment that was everywhere. We were greeted by about 20 (not even exaggerating) merchants shoving necklaces, postcards, and other crap in our face. They were relentless, and continued to follow us into the fort. I used to smile, and say 'no thanks.' Now it's gotten to not talking at all, or if that doesn't work- speaking broken Hindi to tell them to go away. Then, if that isn't effective, I've started resorting to saying not so nice words in English. Nothing really works. I now shutter when I hear, “hello, madam.” Someday some nice person is going to say that, and I'm just going to be so jaded that I will automatically say something pissy.
Then we headed to Agra to see the mighty Taj Mahal. It was 15 rupees for Indians, and 750 (20US) for foreigners- they didn't go for the 'student discount' plea. There were separate womens and mens lines. There was only one checkpoint for the women and three for the men. This is the kind of b.s. that gets under my skin.

After we got in, it was time to see one of the world's top man-made wonders. It's really an incredible feeling to walk through the gates and see this structure appear. It's so beautiful, and the pictures in books don't even come close to showing it accurately. We spent about four hours wondering around the grounds.


People here are really curious when they see non-Indians, and especially when they find out we're American. We tried to sit down for a little bit, and I looked up to see six guys taking pictures of us. I now tell guys that it'll cost 50 rupees- might as well try to make a profit. Most of the time, we just say no. It's downright creepy. However, it's hard to turn down families when they ask. I wonder how many pictures we're in with random Indians. Overall the Taj Mahal is so surreal, and it was worth going.
That night we drove to Bhartapur, and went to a bird sanctuary on Sunday. Yeah, I know- bird sanctuary? It was supposed to be well known, and was on the way back to Jaipur. We had a guide who was cool for the most part (he tried getting a bigger tip out of us). We saw monkeys, antelope, herons, owls, king fishers, a snake, and other birds. I lost interest in the tour about thirty minutes into it.
I now have two papers to write this week, and will do noting relating to homework tonight. Me and Carly are planning our remaining four weekends until the internship. We want to get the heck out of Rajasthan and experience other (hopefully more progressive) parts of India. Going south seems to be in the plan.

American Escape

Snacks. I had some 'real' snacks tonight- french fries. Some of us girls from the program went to a hookah coffee shop called Mr. Bean. They play really bad 90's music (Michael Bolton and Richard Marx), mixed with random rap (Eminem and 50 Cent). The waiters wear strange looking sailor-like uniforms with berets. They can play and wear whatever they want- as long as I can get nachos and french fries. OK, enough about that.
This past weekend was spent exploring more of Jaipur. On Saturday, me and my housemate, Carly, went shopping with our 'mom.' She took us to the insanely busy Old City to the markets. I wasn't sure what was happening most of the time, and just did what she told me. When we entered a store with fabrics, we were instantly bombarded with men unfolding saris in front of us. The shirts all had sequins on them. They look real pretty on other people, but I can't do sparkles. It took awhile to get that fact through to the store workers. So, I got one shirt, and an amazing sari for the wedding we are attending in two weeks. I have no idea how to wear it, but my 'mom' is going to dress me. Oh, and I got promesque jewelry to go along with the sari- it was pretty much an order for me to buy it. I tried to look like I liked the pearl and rhinestone earrings, but not sure I was convincing. I'm thinking the sari will make a nice skirt or curtain when I'm back in the States.
Sunday, we were invited to the aunt, Binew's house for a religious ceremony. It was a ceremony to honor the god, Lakshmi. A Brahman was there chanting scripts in Sanskrit. There were offerings of food and incense decorating the mini altar. I got my first bindi applied (the red dot on the forehead), and I ended up smearing it right away on accident. Then we were served excellent food. Two elderly ladies sat on both sides of me and had me drink some sugar milky thing. Turns out, it also included water from the Ganges. Hmm, well, at least I didn't get sick.
I continue to explore with some girls from class, and we're having a good time doing random things. Instead of going to the desert this weekend, we're headed to a huge bird sanctuary, then to the Taj Mahal in Agra. I have to see this tourist trap while I'm here. I guess after it was built, they cut off the architect's hands so he couldn't recreate a similar structure. ouch.
The picture below was taken from the front porch. Monkeys are super freaky here, and wander everywhere. I saw the biggest one leap at some guy on the street as he was walking.
I'm not down with getting rabies.