I was reminded how I can practice my 'travel writing'......by actually writing. Genius. (Thanks Phil)
It's about time I write a little bit about what takes up many hours of my days here in Phuket- kids. I have 25 of them.
A few years ago, as a Christmas present to myself, I purchased a course to be certified to teach English. I knew I wanted to travel for longer amounts of time, and the bills would not take into account the fact that I am off enjoying myself in foreign lands. Alas, teaching seemed to be a way to maintain my adult responsibilities, while meandering around new places and spaces. Fast forward a few years, and here I am...teaching.
Me and Jenna interviewed via skype, and were on a plane about two weeks later. The age of my kids is 6 and 7. They are in school for about 10 hours a day, and are little Energizer bunnies- they keep going and going. Sometimes when I'm in the front of the room, I'll just look around, and see their eyes drift across the room, while their legs can't stop wiggling. Any frown from frustrations I have from lack of attention turn into a smirk because I am reminded they're kids. I try my best, and they try their best. We're starting to get into a groove, and have good days and bad.
I've learned "Ben 10" is a BIG deal. He is on backpacks, hats, and pencil boxes.
My class is obsessed with having the sharpest pencil possible at all times. The bigger the sharpener, the more popular you are in class.
Kids can be best friends, then make each other cry, and then be back to being best friends after a 10 minute break.
This is just a small sample of what I am learning from these little ones.
Here are some of the faces I am greeted with as 'Teacher Amber in P1 Yellow':
Meet Us- he's goofy, clumsy, smiley, and I squeeze those cheeks every morning.
Here you have Matthew- he is quiet, understands more than you would initially think, and draws intricate pirate ships.
Annnnd Becca. She is has such a little person. We talk about South Park, Family Guy, and Micheal Jackson. Oh yeah, she also takes hip hop classes, and shows me her moves.
That's all for now. Teacher is tired, and needs some rest.
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Over the hump.
We're on week three here, and I'm feeling more settled. Important things we've learned so far consist mainly of motorbike related lessons:
1. Do no put your helmet upside down on the seat. Otherwise, you'll get a drenched head.
2. Only use the ponchos from 7-11 in cases of emergency. They're only 30 baht for a reason. Pink ponchos (with zippers) have now been purchased.
3. Make sure your helmet has a visor or face being pelted by torrential rains.
Jenna has been the designated driver, and I just hang on. She prefers to scoot around, and I prefer to kick back and enjoy the scenery- this is why we work so well together. Here's a snap of her when we were unknowingly getting caught up in the Vegetarian Festival procession (more on this to come as well):
This week has been one of early mornings. The Vegetarian Festival just ended last night. It is considered more of a Chinese Buddhist holiday, and is a big deal in Phuket. Vegetarian food isn't the norm here, but for ten days, many people will stick to a no-meat diet. Here is a link with more background on the meaning of the festival from the ever-so-trusty wiki site:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nine_Emperor_Gods_Festival
We were on holiday last year at this same time, but missed a large part of the festival- the street processions (too many late nights were not condusive to getting up early).
These walks are no ordinary parade. Men (and some women) can be seen walking in a trance with piercings through their faces. What makes it even more interesting is the objects in their face. Let me see....this year we saw remote control helicopters, a faucet, an assault rifle, and swords. These are just a few of the adornments featured. I wasn't sure what to expect, and found my heart skipping beats while waiting to see this. There were firecrackers going off everywhere, offerings placed neatly in front of shops and temples, and music mixed in with the 'warriors.' I couldn't help but notice how the kids were not fazed by any of their surroundings. A man wielding an ax while tranced out...no big deal. This may seem strange to a foreigner, but was a special time for many Thais. I thoroughly enjoyed getting a glimpse into a truly unique event.
After the first thirty minutes or so, I settled a bit, and was able to snap some photos. I must say, last weekend was the best photo weekend I've ever had. Me and Jenna are in the middle of choosing some of the best for the hello photography blog. Check it out!
Here is a sample from some of the sights during the festival. Beware...I did include one piercing photo. ouch.
Many more stories to come. Coffee is now calling, so they'll have to wait.
1. Do no put your helmet upside down on the seat. Otherwise, you'll get a drenched head.
2. Only use the ponchos from 7-11 in cases of emergency. They're only 30 baht for a reason. Pink ponchos (with zippers) have now been purchased.
3. Make sure your helmet has a visor or face being pelted by torrential rains.
Jenna has been the designated driver, and I just hang on. She prefers to scoot around, and I prefer to kick back and enjoy the scenery- this is why we work so well together. Here's a snap of her when we were unknowingly getting caught up in the Vegetarian Festival procession (more on this to come as well):
This week has been one of early mornings. The Vegetarian Festival just ended last night. It is considered more of a Chinese Buddhist holiday, and is a big deal in Phuket. Vegetarian food isn't the norm here, but for ten days, many people will stick to a no-meat diet. Here is a link with more background on the meaning of the festival from the ever-so-trusty wiki site:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nine_Emperor_Gods_Festival
We were on holiday last year at this same time, but missed a large part of the festival- the street processions (too many late nights were not condusive to getting up early).
These walks are no ordinary parade. Men (and some women) can be seen walking in a trance with piercings through their faces. What makes it even more interesting is the objects in their face. Let me see....this year we saw remote control helicopters, a faucet, an assault rifle, and swords. These are just a few of the adornments featured. I wasn't sure what to expect, and found my heart skipping beats while waiting to see this. There were firecrackers going off everywhere, offerings placed neatly in front of shops and temples, and music mixed in with the 'warriors.' I couldn't help but notice how the kids were not fazed by any of their surroundings. A man wielding an ax while tranced out...no big deal. This may seem strange to a foreigner, but was a special time for many Thais. I thoroughly enjoyed getting a glimpse into a truly unique event.
After the first thirty minutes or so, I settled a bit, and was able to snap some photos. I must say, last weekend was the best photo weekend I've ever had. Me and Jenna are in the middle of choosing some of the best for the hello photography blog. Check it out!
Here is a sample from some of the sights during the festival. Beware...I did include one piercing photo. ouch.
Many more stories to come. Coffee is now calling, so they'll have to wait.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Reflection of Sorts
My adventures in Southeast Asia have come to a close for now. I realized that I haven't blogged about my experience in Thailand, so I will try to sum up the incredible memories I will carry with me from that two week trip.
We left Jaipur, heading to Delhi. Our van consisted of a mixture of students that were going back to the States, and some that were headed to Kerala (in the southern part of India). It was bittersweet- I was leaving a place I was just getting acquainted with, but knew I would soon be home.
Me and Magy decided early on in the program that we wanted to go to Thailand. She did most of the travel planning, and it was nice to relax and tag along. The consensus was that we were going to spend the majority of our time on the beach, decompressing from the chaos that had surrounded us since January. We stayed true to that agreement, and thoroughly enjoyed some rest and relaxation. The islands we visited were: Phuket, Kho Phi Phi, Kho Samui, and Kho Phangen. My favorite island was Kho Phi Phi. It was incredibly small, and no motorized vehicles were allowed. So people either walked or bikes around the island. Foreigners were prevalent, but I was surprisingly at ease being a tourist. I had tried for so long to integrate into a culture, that I found myself exhausted by the time my India travels were over. It was time to relax, wear swimsuits and skirts, go out at night, and forget about any restrictions that I faced in India.
In Kho Phi Phi, we beached it by day with drinks in our hand, and danced seaside by night. There were bars along some parts of the beaches, with music pounding and fire dancers providing entertainment. We met so many people at night- many from Australia, the UK, and some Americans (a few of which were using their unemployment to travel- good idea). Here are a few pictures from Kho Phi Phi:
Some highlights from the islands were:
1. Ladyboys! Some were more beautiful than natural-born women.
2. Getting a tattoo from a shady looking shop with cats running freely, and the artist drinking beer while working. Those boys were quite entertaining with their broken English, humor, and early 90's rap music.
3. Spending my 27th birthday on the beach, drinking pina coladas, going to a Muai Thai event, and dancing like crazy. This photo is me having my first drink on my birthday.
4. Motorbiking through the jungle, only to find a waterless waterfall (it was right before monsoon season), and almost getting major injuries from wiping out. Here is Magy's injury and a photo of our trek in the jungle.
Only one night was spent in Bangkok before heading on the long flight home. The city has alot to offer, and I would like to come back and explore. Here's a photo from property owned by parliament.
I was teary-eyed when our flight took off to Delhi. Thailand was so relieving for me, and the combination of people and scenery made me promise myself to return.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
finishing up
The taxi comes on Friday morning to take us back to Jaipur. Lately, days have been going by pretty quickly. However, it hasn't always been this way- especially when the power is out and I'm sweating buckets.
Tomorrow is my last day with Astha. I finished my process report yesterday, and gave it to the director. I was a little nervous, but I think it turned out well. These final two days, I'll be playing a lot of cards, and attempting to speaking Hinglish with the staff. Today, I tried to teach Sita the words, 'gnarly' 'rad' and 'oh, he's yummy'- all useful words, of course. Her pronouncation is entertaining for the both of us.
This internship has been a great experience, even if I could only understand half of what was going on. Astha does amazing work, and it's refreshing to see people who are so passionate about their work.
Classmates from Jaipur came into Udaipur this weekend. There were a total of 10, so doing activities in a group can get challenging. It was fun though- lots of sitting, eating, OhNo (Uno), and shopping. We also took two rickshaws up to the Monsoon Palace. It was a trick getting up there, and we had to stop twice for the rickshaws to rest so they didn't overheat. One of them had a sub in it, and we got to listen to the Spice Girls- classy. We sat up there until sundown. Here's some photos for your viewing pleasure:
This weekend, I attended a going-away party for a fellow NGO'er, Alvero (from Spain). It's been comforting to have people around that have similar experiences- and that also like to enjoy a cold brew:) Shiveta (on the left) is in the same program as me, then there's Alvero, and Fizzy (from London)
I've gotten pretty close with auntyji. We both are coffee drinkers, so we'll sit and drink and chat. Last night, she came into my room with a gift. It was a traditional Rajasthani dress/sari she had bought for me. It has a proper name, but I forgot. It's deep red, with gold accents- pretty flashy. It's really beautiful, and was unexpected. Then came the other surprise- I was supposed to wear it and go to the photography studio they own. Yep, I was very 'Indian' yesterday. I put it on (with some help), then attempted to put my hair up. I came out, and could clearly see they weren't finished with me. I had auntyji's red bangles put on my wrist, massive earrings and a necklace, and a head wrap thingy. Then they took me downstairs where two women stood over me and did my makeup. Ummm... I have never had so much makeup on in my life. seriously. I felt like a doll. I didn't want to move for fear of messing up the material or my face paint. Auntyji was getting a laugh out of my awkwardness. These photos will not be circulating, but the story was worth sharing.
Thailand is the next destination. We leave Tuesday night and fly to Bangkok, then grab a flight an hour later to Phuket. From there, we are beach hopping, spending about three nights in each place. The last night, we're staying in Bangkok. Protests have settled down there, but it is still recommended not to linger in the city. I'm fine with a little revolutionary activity, as long as I can get to and from the airport.
I will try to post one or two more times while I am here, but I'm not sure what my internet access will be like, or I might just be lazy and laying on the beach.
Less than three weeks, and I am back on Minnesota soil. Uffda.
Monday, April 13, 2009
i have a runny nose.
and there are no tissues in India. Really- I've looked everywhere. I'm not sure what is the best way to care for my nose- farmer's blow? hanky? help people.
Oh well, I will take a runny nose over the sickness I had last week. I am now back to eating Indian food, instead of a bread diet.
This past weekend was pretty low key. Me, Shiveta (my roomie), and Farhad (an NGO worker) went to a bookstore in the old city. I love sitting on the ground staring at all the covers, and find myself only looking through the books with pictures- they're the best. Then a few of us went out to a restaurant next door from the homestay. It was so nice and clean; the best part was it actually had live music! We heard covers "Hotel California" and "Ring of Fire." The band wasn't that great, but I was pleased. Also, watched the movie, MILK with Sean Penn. Another great movie.
Here's a random photo of the view I see from the rooftop of one of my favorite restaurants in Udaipur.
Lately, I've been trying to put my life together- at least for the next three months (baby steps). My advisor at the U is probably very sick of my emails, but I think it's been worked out that I can start and finish my thesis this summer. It's a crazy move, considering I haven't narrowed down my topic or methodology. This would mean I would pretty much live at the U. I've actually never sat in the library, just stopped by for coffee. Time to get acquainted.
This week I am determined to get all my papers done, so I have some downtime next week. Some friends from Jaipur are coming to visit again, and we are planning to do the trip to Mt. Abu. I can't stop thinking about Thailand- I want to go swimming so bad. There's a pool at the club I workout at, but I can't see through the chemicals to the bottom. So, I quickly ruled out going for a dip.
This picture is of a little boy, Herard. His parents died, and the uncle of the homestay family has been looking after him. He gets a room above the garage, but is treated as a servant, and does not attend school. He always sits on the floor (he was waiting for the daughter of another servant that was washing dishes) It is strange to relax and drink a smoothie when he is probably just as warm as I am. He isn't offered one, rather, he clears the glasses from the table. uncomfortable. So now I don't take anything while he is here. This treatment is considered 'normal' in most households.
Child labor or helping keep a child off the street? I know where I stand, but will not use this blog to rant about politics.
I had to write about him in some way. He is a very sweet boy, and we exchange a little Hindi. I asked to take his picture today, and he has a great smile, but would look serious when he thought I would 'shoot the snap.'
The picture below is the result of mendi art done by a co-worker Sita (the giggly girl who always talks to me two inches from my face).
Oh well, I will take a runny nose over the sickness I had last week. I am now back to eating Indian food, instead of a bread diet.
This past weekend was pretty low key. Me, Shiveta (my roomie), and Farhad (an NGO worker) went to a bookstore in the old city. I love sitting on the ground staring at all the covers, and find myself only looking through the books with pictures- they're the best. Then a few of us went out to a restaurant next door from the homestay. It was so nice and clean; the best part was it actually had live music! We heard covers "Hotel California" and "Ring of Fire." The band wasn't that great, but I was pleased. Also, watched the movie, MILK with Sean Penn. Another great movie.
Here's a random photo of the view I see from the rooftop of one of my favorite restaurants in Udaipur.
Lately, I've been trying to put my life together- at least for the next three months (baby steps). My advisor at the U is probably very sick of my emails, but I think it's been worked out that I can start and finish my thesis this summer. It's a crazy move, considering I haven't narrowed down my topic or methodology. This would mean I would pretty much live at the U. I've actually never sat in the library, just stopped by for coffee. Time to get acquainted.
This week I am determined to get all my papers done, so I have some downtime next week. Some friends from Jaipur are coming to visit again, and we are planning to do the trip to Mt. Abu. I can't stop thinking about Thailand- I want to go swimming so bad. There's a pool at the club I workout at, but I can't see through the chemicals to the bottom. So, I quickly ruled out going for a dip.
This picture is of a little boy, Herard. His parents died, and the uncle of the homestay family has been looking after him. He gets a room above the garage, but is treated as a servant, and does not attend school. He always sits on the floor (he was waiting for the daughter of another servant that was washing dishes) It is strange to relax and drink a smoothie when he is probably just as warm as I am. He isn't offered one, rather, he clears the glasses from the table. uncomfortable. So now I don't take anything while he is here. This treatment is considered 'normal' in most households.
Child labor or helping keep a child off the street? I know where I stand, but will not use this blog to rant about politics.
I had to write about him in some way. He is a very sweet boy, and we exchange a little Hindi. I asked to take his picture today, and he has a great smile, but would look serious when he thought I would 'shoot the snap.'
The picture below is the result of mendi art done by a co-worker Sita (the giggly girl who always talks to me two inches from my face).
Thursday, April 9, 2009
over the hump
The photo above is men giving their signature (a thumb print) to verify they have completed a day of work. If you have time, look up the government scheme, NREGA.
Wow. Time is going by quickly. Sometimes it doesn't seem that way, but overall, the days are moving along at a fast rate. Two weeks from today, I will be finished with my internship, then heading to Jaipur for four days of wrap-up and final presentations.
India- we will be parting soon. I'm not going to get into my feelings for this country quite yet. My time here isn't up. I am trying to soak in every rickshaw ride (which by the way, we had 12 women fit into one this morning. impressive, but hot), chaos of the old city at night, and of course, the nuzzling cows.
I have been going out into the field most days. By now, I have seen some of the women two or three times, and we are past the 'namaste' phase- we've moved onto hugging. I enjoy getting hugged because it is not common practice here. I didn't realize how much I have missed it.
Last week, I visited the most impoverished village I've seen yet. It was a section called Oden. I tagged along with two other Astha women. They went to talk to a group of women about ways to save money and start a joint account for the community. The money they earn from daily labor (which is at maximum 100 Rupees= $4) goes to the husbands. Drinking is a common problem in that area, so the money hasn't been going to support the family. The women were very receptive, and welcoming towards me.
Above is a photo of a little girl who was being really patient while we were meeting with the women under a tree.
The reality of poverty sinks in very quickly when I'm in the middle of children that are bloated from malnourishment or are continuously sleeping because they are too weak to play. I worry about what kind of future they will have. Each day I go out into the field with Astha, I build more and more appreciation for the work of the NGO.
This was at a school where kids are getting their daily government rations (three meals a day):
I have no idea how I will feel when I get back to the States. I do know that I will have a greater appreciation for the availability of opportunity. Also, I think material objects will be way lower on my list of importance. I feel more reassured that I got rid of most of my pocessions before I left.
While out in the field, I got braver with street food. When it's 110 degrees and there's sugar cane or pineapple juice stands in front of me- I'm gonna drink it. Problem is that ice has been used- ice that isn't made with filtered water. It was so hot last week, that I tried to ignore it. Bad idea. I have been pretty sick for the past four days. I think its is combination of the juices, water balls (I'll talk about them later), and sun. I have been feeling weak, and don't really care for eating anything. I got some meds yesterday for 13 Rupees (about 8 cents) that should help. By the way, written prescriptions aren't needed for anything- kinda crazy. I like that I can get medicine right away, without waiting at the doctor. My roomate's dad is a doctor in the States, so we just chatted over gmail, and he told me what to get. Auntyji also did some aerovedic technique on me this morning. All I know, is she found out I'm unbalanced- my right side is one inch longer than my left. weird. I'm still pretty out of it, so I've been sleeping alot.
Here's a photo of some street food (not usually the type I eat, but it looks gnarly):
I'm headed about an hour and a half out of Udaipur tomorrow for a village meeting. Hopefully, I'll see some of the women I've met. Then this weekend, we may head to Mt. Abu to explore, if my body will let me.
I will probably see this surpanch, Daki Bai tomorrow as well (photo also includes staff of the Hunger Project, another NGO):
Ah, I got to watch a movie in English the other day. I went to some electronics store and bought six movies on one disc for 90 Rupees ($1.80). The movie was Woody Allen's 'Vicky Christina Barcelona.' It was amazing on many levels. Check it out. Also, makes me want to go back to Barcelona real bad. Anyone have jobs hook-ups there?
Finally, a big “HI” to the One Stop crew! Miss you guys, and I'll come bug you when I get back.
Geoff and Tai- I'll be needing a hug.
Monday, March 30, 2009
India is hot.
I am sitting in the ASTHA office trying not to be a wuss, but my cheeks seem to be permanently red, and the power outages aren't helping.
I still haven't figured out the right clothes to wear- long pants and sleeves are too warm, but wearing short sleeves and capris has resulted in a mosquito feeding frenzy. Hope those malaria pills do their job.
Last week was very busy at the NGO, but I enjoyed myself. I got the chance to sit in on literacy training. Women of all ages where in the center for three days for intensive training. It was the third, and final round for these groups. I was basically learning right along with them- forming sentences and picking out letters. I find reading and writing Hindi is much easier than speaking it. I am still at the very beginning level when it comes to verbal communication, but have become quite skilled in conveying my thoughts with hand and facial motions.
Here's a photo from the literacy session:
Last Thursday I went with a colleague to a village six hours out of Udaipur. We took a lovely government bus that had no air, half cushioned seats, and people packed in like sardines. Throw in the smell of onions and body odor, and you have a very long busride. The roads are not maintained in the rural areas, so I found myself literally hanging onto the handle on the seat in front of me in an effort to brace myself for the massive bumps in the road. The purpose for the trip was to follow-up with women from a village to check on their literacy development. They had went through the trainings, and ASTHA wants to check and see if they continue with their studies. Many did quite well, and others were helped too much by their male family members. After a bit, we had to ask the men to leave because they were too much of a distraction.
I had my back faced to a corner of the room, without noticing what had filtered in behind me. Foreigners are very, well...foreign to villagers, so they tend to observe me closely. When I saw what happened, I had to take a picture (I tried to squeeze them all into the frame):
We made it there and back safely, so I consider the trip a success. I also had a great time getting to know Hemlata- my colleague. She is very sweet, and had many questions for me, and also filled me in on her secret boyfriend, whom she wants to marry. I learned alot about the marriage rituals from her. She seems to be in a minority here because she believes in marrying for love. I have talked to many others who still think that the parents should decide on a suitor; based on caste, economic status, and family.
Then we got deliriously tired of riding the bus, so I gave her a headphone, and we listened to my ipod (or “FM” as she kept calling it).
Two of my fellow MSIDer's came to visit me this weekend. Maggie and Anna are interning in Jaipur, and need a little time away. It was so nice to spend time with them. Carly was supposed to come, but needed to leave for work in the field, so the three of them are planning another visit here. We didn't do too many touristy things. They mainly wanted to relax. Udaipur is way more chill than Japiur- and less dusty and smelly. We did some shopping in the Old City, ate American, Thai, and Israeli food, and had some brews. Each time I see non-Indian food on the menu, I order it. I do love Indian food, but also need a change in my diet once and awhile.
We also went to a salon and got our hair did. They got hair cuts, and I got a hair oil. It's a combination of coconut and almond oil. Then they give a massage, and steam, then finally shampoo and condition. The total cost for this magicalness was $4US. Um, yes, I have found a Sunday tradition. The positive reaction that I got when I came back to the house made me realize how scrubby I've become. They looked surprised by the different, more cleaned-up version of me. That was the first time I've had my hair blow dryed or had product since January. Frankly, I'm not too concerned with makeup or hair while I'm here, but I'm also not above getting pampered a little.
Udaipur has more amenities than I expected. I am thankful that I have the opportunity to experience rural, village culture with my fieldwork, while also having conveniences available to me in the city. The salon and coffeeshop are places of comfort for me.
A gym two buildings down from my homestay just opened. So, I am now a member (for a month) of an Indian gym. Didn't expect that. I already feel much better. It gets too hot to do much activity outside, and with everything closing down at 10pm, I have alot of energy built up. The gym is small, but new. I found that my version of working out is strange to most others in the gym. The manager actually approached me this morning to check on me. He said he saw me get on two cardio machines, and was worried I would sweat too much. Uh..I thought that was the point. I told him I would be fine. My yoga pants and Converse are not normal attire here, but I don't know how women can work out in the pantsuits. That baffles me. They also have spin bikes there, which has made me real excited. However, just like any other place in India, there are men everywhere (as strange as it may sound, that's not something I'm excited about here). This morning there were five, male trainers wondering around, and only one other female working out. Oh well, I got my headphones and some good music.
Time to start the two papers due before the end of the week. MSID has the mid-internship meeting in Jaipur this weekend. More importantly, I get to see the girls again.
Here are some photos of Udaipur I took over the weekend:
I still haven't figured out the right clothes to wear- long pants and sleeves are too warm, but wearing short sleeves and capris has resulted in a mosquito feeding frenzy. Hope those malaria pills do their job.
Last week was very busy at the NGO, but I enjoyed myself. I got the chance to sit in on literacy training. Women of all ages where in the center for three days for intensive training. It was the third, and final round for these groups. I was basically learning right along with them- forming sentences and picking out letters. I find reading and writing Hindi is much easier than speaking it. I am still at the very beginning level when it comes to verbal communication, but have become quite skilled in conveying my thoughts with hand and facial motions.
Here's a photo from the literacy session:
Last Thursday I went with a colleague to a village six hours out of Udaipur. We took a lovely government bus that had no air, half cushioned seats, and people packed in like sardines. Throw in the smell of onions and body odor, and you have a very long busride. The roads are not maintained in the rural areas, so I found myself literally hanging onto the handle on the seat in front of me in an effort to brace myself for the massive bumps in the road. The purpose for the trip was to follow-up with women from a village to check on their literacy development. They had went through the trainings, and ASTHA wants to check and see if they continue with their studies. Many did quite well, and others were helped too much by their male family members. After a bit, we had to ask the men to leave because they were too much of a distraction.
I had my back faced to a corner of the room, without noticing what had filtered in behind me. Foreigners are very, well...foreign to villagers, so they tend to observe me closely. When I saw what happened, I had to take a picture (I tried to squeeze them all into the frame):
We made it there and back safely, so I consider the trip a success. I also had a great time getting to know Hemlata- my colleague. She is very sweet, and had many questions for me, and also filled me in on her secret boyfriend, whom she wants to marry. I learned alot about the marriage rituals from her. She seems to be in a minority here because she believes in marrying for love. I have talked to many others who still think that the parents should decide on a suitor; based on caste, economic status, and family.
Then we got deliriously tired of riding the bus, so I gave her a headphone, and we listened to my ipod (or “FM” as she kept calling it).
Two of my fellow MSIDer's came to visit me this weekend. Maggie and Anna are interning in Jaipur, and need a little time away. It was so nice to spend time with them. Carly was supposed to come, but needed to leave for work in the field, so the three of them are planning another visit here. We didn't do too many touristy things. They mainly wanted to relax. Udaipur is way more chill than Japiur- and less dusty and smelly. We did some shopping in the Old City, ate American, Thai, and Israeli food, and had some brews. Each time I see non-Indian food on the menu, I order it. I do love Indian food, but also need a change in my diet once and awhile.
We also went to a salon and got our hair did. They got hair cuts, and I got a hair oil. It's a combination of coconut and almond oil. Then they give a massage, and steam, then finally shampoo and condition. The total cost for this magicalness was $4US. Um, yes, I have found a Sunday tradition. The positive reaction that I got when I came back to the house made me realize how scrubby I've become. They looked surprised by the different, more cleaned-up version of me. That was the first time I've had my hair blow dryed or had product since January. Frankly, I'm not too concerned with makeup or hair while I'm here, but I'm also not above getting pampered a little.
Udaipur has more amenities than I expected. I am thankful that I have the opportunity to experience rural, village culture with my fieldwork, while also having conveniences available to me in the city. The salon and coffeeshop are places of comfort for me.
A gym two buildings down from my homestay just opened. So, I am now a member (for a month) of an Indian gym. Didn't expect that. I already feel much better. It gets too hot to do much activity outside, and with everything closing down at 10pm, I have alot of energy built up. The gym is small, but new. I found that my version of working out is strange to most others in the gym. The manager actually approached me this morning to check on me. He said he saw me get on two cardio machines, and was worried I would sweat too much. Uh..I thought that was the point. I told him I would be fine. My yoga pants and Converse are not normal attire here, but I don't know how women can work out in the pantsuits. That baffles me. They also have spin bikes there, which has made me real excited. However, just like any other place in India, there are men everywhere (as strange as it may sound, that's not something I'm excited about here). This morning there were five, male trainers wondering around, and only one other female working out. Oh well, I got my headphones and some good music.
Time to start the two papers due before the end of the week. MSID has the mid-internship meeting in Jaipur this weekend. More importantly, I get to see the girls again.
Here are some photos of Udaipur I took over the weekend:
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Work
I am into my second week of work at the ASTHA. They are keeping me quite busy, and I am enjoying the experience overall. So far, I have been given my main process report project to be completed over the next month, traveled out into the villages for two days, and today is the start of a three day training session at the Center. I introduced myself to the group of thirty women today, and they only had one question for me- whether I was married or not. I got some strange looks when I told them I was 26 and unmarried.
There is something to do everyday, and my schedule is changing often. I no longer assume that things are understood between me and my co-workers because some things have already been lost in translation. So, I ask questions and get confirmations about twenty times a day.
The favorite part of my time so far has been the village work. I went along with a translator and another co-worker to interview female panchayats. They all come from the lower castes, and many had no knowledge about politics before they were elected. Many women are pushed to run for a panchayat seat by their husbands or other family members because they want their opinions to be heard in the political arena. The Indian government made it mandatory that 33 percent of the seats be reserved for women.
Each time we traveled to a home, I was offered curd and chach (it's supposed to help with the heat). However, there is something about warm dairy products in even warmer temperatures that does not appeal to me. They do not understand the concept of me saying 'nahi' (no), so in order to not offend them, I have made up an excuse that my doctor has told me not to have dairy. Yes, I know it's a lie, but it's the only way to get them to stop shoving it in my face. Instead of warm milk, I'm drinking massive amounts of chai.
These women were all very welcoming, and had just as many questions for me as I had for them. My Hindi is getting better, and I can understand a fair amount that is being said. It's the speaking part that is in need of practice.
The heat is becoming more intense, and while outside, I am either covering my head with a scarf, or searching for a spot in the shade. I have also discovered sugar cane juice- it's incredible. The sugar cane is literally crushed in front of me by some guy using a grinding machine, and poured into a glass. Most of the time I can get it all into my mouth without spilling (it's not wise to touch your mouth to the glasses, so I have to hold the glass a couple inches higher, and aim). The sugar helps deal with the heat, and is also a nice treat.
Udaipur has a large concentration on NGO's, and I have met some others working in town. Many hang out at a coffeeshop by my homestay because it has free wireless. I've met people from Sweden, Spain, the States, Switzerland, other parts of India, and Canada. It's comforting to have other people going through similar experiences.
I don't have too many pictures of the city, but hope to take some this weekend. Carly, Anna, and Maggy are headed here from Jaipur to visit, so we'll be taking a tour around town.
The pictures posted are from my trip into the field.
The woman on the left in the picture below is an elected wardpanch (look it up). She is part of a very strict caste and didn't leave her house since marriage. When she was elected, she said the first thing she had to do was buy shoes, because before she didn't travel, so shoes were not required. Now she travels to big cities for trainings with other women. It is rewarding to see how women from such sheltered upbringings can become empowered at any age, and in any region. ASTHA does not fight on behalf of the people. They provide the community with the trainings and resources to become aware of rights, and places the responsibility on the people to make change.
This month will go by quickly, and alot of papers need to be written. The Thailand ticket is booked. I will be there with my friend, Maggie for two weeks. We plan to go explore Phuket and the surrounding islands for a week. We are then heading east for more island time. The end of the trip will be in Bangkok. Then it's two days of travel- to the States by way of Delhi.
P.S. My homestay family felt the need for me to have a cell phone, so they are letting me use one of their old phones. All incoming calls/texts are free to me. So, if you are really missing me, here's the number: 9649471180. India's country code is 091 I think (that will need to go before the actual phone number).
I will try to figure out how to answer.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Udaipur
The second half of the program is now underway, and I think the best parts are yet to come. I finished my second day of interning with ATHSA. I am working in the Self-Governance Unit with three other employees and two interns. I am the only American intern, and am getting a crash course in Hindi, as my co-workers speak very little English. I was given my main task the first day. The personal project I have been assigned is to conduct research and compile a process report about two specific Panchaiyat members of village communities. Panchaiyats are elected village officials who work for the welfare of their own. Currently, 33% of these seats are reserved for women. I am going to look at the structure, challenges, and strengths, etc. I am off to the first village on Thursday, with an translator. Hopefully the interaction won't be too awkward and I can start to build a relationship with these women and obtain useful data. I'm feeling a little pressure because ASTHA wants to publish the findings in their annual report.
The staff there are really nice. The two female interns and I try to communicate as best we can, but mostly it ends up in strange looks or giggling. They are very sweet, and like to ask lots of questions. The other female worker is 24, and will be a translator. She also revealed to me today that she is engaged to be married through an arrangement. She has met her fiance only once, and will see him one more time before marriage. I asked her if she was happy, and she said 'yes.' Still don't completely grasp the idea of arranged marriages, but to each their own.
The city of Udaipur is a nice change from Jaipur. It is still large, but the traffic and dust are incredibly minimalized when compared to Jaipur. Also, the smells aren't as pungent because there aren't men peeing in every corner. I feel safer walking around here too because I don't feel hassled as much as before. This weekend I hope to explore the city more, and check out the lakes and temples on the hills surrounding the city.
One more thing. I had my longest Hindi conversation yet. It was today in a group taxi with a woman who had a gnarly front gold tooth. She pretty much sat on top of me, and then introduced herself. Once I proceeded to tell her my name, she reached for my leg, and started rubbing my tattoo. Then another lady joined in and was touching me. Strange, but I couldn't stop smiling. I managed to tell them where I got it, where I am from, where I work, and asked about their day. Then after about a minute, I was out of sentences. They didn't seem to mind and started talking more Hindi, so all I did was nod, and say 'tik hai' (means 'ok').
By the end of this month stay, I think I should be up to a two minute conversation.
The staff there are really nice. The two female interns and I try to communicate as best we can, but mostly it ends up in strange looks or giggling. They are very sweet, and like to ask lots of questions. The other female worker is 24, and will be a translator. She also revealed to me today that she is engaged to be married through an arrangement. She has met her fiance only once, and will see him one more time before marriage. I asked her if she was happy, and she said 'yes.' Still don't completely grasp the idea of arranged marriages, but to each their own.
The city of Udaipur is a nice change from Jaipur. It is still large, but the traffic and dust are incredibly minimalized when compared to Jaipur. Also, the smells aren't as pungent because there aren't men peeing in every corner. I feel safer walking around here too because I don't feel hassled as much as before. This weekend I hope to explore the city more, and check out the lakes and temples on the hills surrounding the city.
One more thing. I had my longest Hindi conversation yet. It was today in a group taxi with a woman who had a gnarly front gold tooth. She pretty much sat on top of me, and then introduced herself. Once I proceeded to tell her my name, she reached for my leg, and started rubbing my tattoo. Then another lady joined in and was touching me. Strange, but I couldn't stop smiling. I managed to tell them where I got it, where I am from, where I work, and asked about their day. Then after about a minute, I was out of sentences. They didn't seem to mind and started talking more Hindi, so all I did was nod, and say 'tik hai' (means 'ok').
By the end of this month stay, I think I should be up to a two minute conversation.
Friday, March 13, 2009
Goa
Time for an update:
I am at my last day of class in the MSID building. We are just basically doing some last minute prepping for the internships. I leave tomorrow morning at 7:30 for Udaipur. Time has flown by, and the program is over in less than a month and a half. I am not sure about the internet availability, so posts may be more sporadic than they already are. Still no cellphone, I am going to try and manage. I guess I'm the only student without one, but I've survived this far.
Ok, on to the more exciting stuff: Goa. This is a magical place, and now I know where people go when they don't return from India. The atmosphere is Goa is so laid back. We arrived to a cute little hotel back in the woods. It was quaint, and Carly and I shared our room with geckos and a frog. Crawly creatures don't seem to bother me as much anymore. I've accepted that they are going to be living with me, so I don't bother them, and hopefully they won't jump on my face while I'm sleeping.
The Arabian Sea was a five minute walk from our hotel. There are beautiful beaches everywhere, which we could walk to, and then take a break at the beach shack for some beers and good food. We were beach bums pretty much all three days. My favorite beach was called "Spaghetti Beach." It has a large Italian population, and we made friends with an Italian hippie. He had been coming to Goa for the past 30 years, and had some great stories.
Holi was crazy cool. Me and Maggie rented a scooter, and everytime we would get caught in a traffic jam, kids would pelt us with color. I threw away three shirts and a pair of pants. My body is still stained with purple and pink color.
We went out dancing after the sun was gone. We had so much fun, and got to see dj's on the beach.
Our personal driver, Nani made sure we made it home safe every night. He was crazy, old, and kinda creepy, but was entertaining. I tried not to look at his eyes, as they were permanently bloodshot- I didn't ask questions, and we made it to our destinations.
So, I took some of my favorite pictures in Goa. However, I have ADD on planes, and was messing with my camera, I managed to accidentally delete over 100 pictures. So, the only ones left are from my little camera, and are of us girls at the clubs in the evening. I promise we actually did more than that.
Ok, gotta run finish up last minute paperwork. I'll write more later.
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