India is hot.

I am sitting in the ASTHA office trying not to be a wuss, but my cheeks seem to be permanently red, and the power outages aren't helping.
I still haven't figured out the right clothes to wear- long pants and sleeves are too warm, but wearing short sleeves and capris has resulted in a mosquito feeding frenzy. Hope those malaria pills do their job.
Last week was very busy at the NGO, but I enjoyed myself. I got the chance to sit in on literacy training. Women of all ages where in the center for three days for intensive training. It was the third, and final round for these groups. I was basically learning right along with them- forming sentences and picking out letters. I find reading and writing Hindi is much easier than speaking it. I am still at the very beginning level when it comes to verbal communication, but have become quite skilled in conveying my thoughts with hand and facial motions.
Here's a photo from the literacy session:


Last Thursday I went with a colleague to a village six hours out of Udaipur. We took a lovely government bus that had no air, half cushioned seats, and people packed in like sardines. Throw in the smell of onions and body odor, and you have a very long busride. The roads are not maintained in the rural areas, so I found myself literally hanging onto the handle on the seat in front of me in an effort to brace myself for the massive bumps in the road. The purpose for the trip was to follow-up with women from a village to check on their literacy development. They had went through the trainings, and ASTHA wants to check and see if they continue with their studies. Many did quite well, and others were helped too much by their male family members. After a bit, we had to ask the men to leave because they were too much of a distraction.
I had my back faced to a corner of the room, without noticing what had filtered in behind me. Foreigners are very, well...foreign to villagers, so they tend to observe me closely. When I saw what happened, I had to take a picture (I tried to squeeze them all into the frame):


We made it there and back safely, so I consider the trip a success. I also had a great time getting to know Hemlata- my colleague. She is very sweet, and had many questions for me, and also filled me in on her secret boyfriend, whom she wants to marry. I learned alot about the marriage rituals from her. She seems to be in a minority here because she believes in marrying for love. I have talked to many others who still think that the parents should decide on a suitor; based on caste, economic status, and family.
Then we got deliriously tired of riding the bus, so I gave her a headphone, and we listened to my ipod (or “FM” as she kept calling it).
Two of my fellow MSIDer's came to visit me this weekend. Maggie and Anna are interning in Jaipur, and need a little time away. It was so nice to spend time with them. Carly was supposed to come, but needed to leave for work in the field, so the three of them are planning another visit here. We didn't do too many touristy things. They mainly wanted to relax. Udaipur is way more chill than Japiur- and less dusty and smelly. We did some shopping in the Old City, ate American, Thai, and Israeli food, and had some brews. Each time I see non-Indian food on the menu, I order it. I do love Indian food, but also need a change in my diet once and awhile.
We also went to a salon and got our hair did. They got hair cuts, and I got a hair oil. It's a combination of coconut and almond oil. Then they give a massage, and steam, then finally shampoo and condition. The total cost for this magicalness was $4US. Um, yes, I have found a Sunday tradition. The positive reaction that I got when I came back to the house made me realize how scrubby I've become. They looked surprised by the different, more cleaned-up version of me. That was the first time I've had my hair blow dryed or had product since January. Frankly, I'm not too concerned with makeup or hair while I'm here, but I'm also not above getting pampered a little.
Udaipur has more amenities than I expected. I am thankful that I have the opportunity to experience rural, village culture with my fieldwork, while also having conveniences available to me in the city. The salon and coffeeshop are places of comfort for me.
A gym two buildings down from my homestay just opened. So, I am now a member (for a month) of an Indian gym. Didn't expect that. I already feel much better. It gets too hot to do much activity outside, and with everything closing down at 10pm, I have alot of energy built up. The gym is small, but new. I found that my version of working out is strange to most others in the gym. The manager actually approached me this morning to check on me. He said he saw me get on two cardio machines, and was worried I would sweat too much. Uh..I thought that was the point. I told him I would be fine. My yoga pants and Converse are not normal attire here, but I don't know how women can work out in the pantsuits. That baffles me. They also have spin bikes there, which has made me real excited. However, just like any other place in India, there are men everywhere (as strange as it may sound, that's not something I'm excited about here). This morning there were five, male trainers wondering around, and only one other female working out. Oh well, I got my headphones and some good music.
Time to start the two papers due before the end of the week. MSID has the mid-internship meeting in Jaipur this weekend. More importantly, I get to see the girls again.
Here are some photos of Udaipur I took over the weekend:

Work

I am into my second week of work at the ASTHA. They are keeping me quite busy, and I am enjoying the experience overall. So far, I have been given my main process report project to be completed over the next month, traveled out into the villages for two days, and today is the start of a three day training session at the Center. I introduced myself to the group of thirty women today, and they only had one question for me- whether I was married or not. I got some strange looks when I told them I was 26 and unmarried.

There is something to do everyday, and my schedule is changing often. I no longer assume that things are understood between me and my co-workers because some things have already been lost in translation. So, I ask questions and get confirmations about twenty times a day.
The favorite part of my time so far has been the village work. I went along with a translator and another co-worker to interview female panchayats. They all come from the lower castes, and many had no knowledge about politics before they were elected. Many women are pushed to run for a panchayat seat by their husbands or other family members because they want their opinions to be heard in the political arena. The Indian government made it mandatory that 33 percent of the seats be reserved for women.
Each time we traveled to a home, I was offered curd and chach (it's supposed to help with the heat). However, there is something about warm dairy products in even warmer temperatures that does not appeal to me. They do not understand the concept of me saying 'nahi' (no), so in order to not offend them, I have made up an excuse that my doctor has told me not to have dairy. Yes, I know it's a lie, but it's the only way to get them to stop shoving it in my face. Instead of warm milk, I'm drinking massive amounts of chai.
These women were all very welcoming, and had just as many questions for me as I had for them. My Hindi is getting better, and I can understand a fair amount that is being said. It's the speaking part that is in need of practice.
The heat is becoming more intense, and while outside, I am either covering my head with a scarf, or searching for a spot in the shade. I have also discovered sugar cane juice- it's incredible. The sugar cane is literally crushed in front of me by some guy using a grinding machine, and poured into a glass. Most of the time I can get it all into my mouth without spilling (it's not wise to touch your mouth to the glasses, so I have to hold the glass a couple inches higher, and aim). The sugar helps deal with the heat, and is also a nice treat.
Udaipur has a large concentration on NGO's, and I have met some others working in town. Many hang out at a coffeeshop by my homestay because it has free wireless. I've met people from Sweden, Spain, the States, Switzerland, other parts of India, and Canada. It's comforting to have other people going through similar experiences.
I don't have too many pictures of the city, but hope to take some this weekend. Carly, Anna, and Maggy are headed here from Jaipur to visit, so we'll be taking a tour around town.
The pictures posted are from my trip into the field.
The woman on the left in the picture below is an elected wardpanch (look it up). She is part of a very strict caste and didn't leave her house since marriage. When she was elected, she said the first thing she had to do was buy shoes, because before she didn't travel, so shoes were not required. Now she travels to big cities for trainings with other women. It is rewarding to see how women from such sheltered upbringings can become empowered at any age, and in any region. ASTHA does not fight on behalf of the people. They provide the community with the trainings and resources to become aware of rights, and places the responsibility on the people to make change.

This month will go by quickly, and alot of papers need to be written. The Thailand ticket is booked. I will be there with my friend, Maggie for two weeks. We plan to go explore Phuket and the surrounding islands for a week. We are then heading east for more island time. The end of the trip will be in Bangkok. Then it's two days of travel- to the States by way of Delhi.
P.S. My homestay family felt the need for me to have a cell phone, so they are letting me use one of their old phones. All incoming calls/texts are free to me. So, if you are really missing me, here's the number: 9649471180. India's country code is 091 I think (that will need to go before the actual phone number).
I will try to figure out how to answer.

Udaipur

The second half of the program is now underway, and I think the best parts are yet to come. I finished my second day of interning with ATHSA. I am working in the Self-Governance Unit with three other employees and two interns. I am the only American intern, and am getting a crash course in Hindi, as my co-workers speak very little English. I was given my main task the first day. The personal project I have been assigned is to conduct research and compile a process report about two specific Panchaiyat members of village communities. Panchaiyats are elected village officials who work for the welfare of their own. Currently, 33% of these seats are reserved for women. I am going to look at the structure, challenges, and strengths, etc. I am off to the first village on Thursday, with an translator. Hopefully the interaction won't be too awkward and I can start to build a relationship with these women and obtain useful data. I'm feeling a little pressure because ASTHA wants to publish the findings in their annual report.
The staff there are really nice. The two female interns and I try to communicate as best we can, but mostly it ends up in strange looks or giggling. They are very sweet, and like to ask lots of questions. The other female worker is 24, and will be a translator. She also revealed to me today that she is engaged to be married through an arrangement. She has met her fiance only once, and will see him one more time before marriage. I asked her if she was happy, and she said 'yes.' Still don't completely grasp the idea of arranged marriages, but to each their own.
The city of Udaipur is a nice change from Jaipur. It is still large, but the traffic and dust are incredibly minimalized when compared to Jaipur. Also, the smells aren't as pungent because there aren't men peeing in every corner. I feel safer walking around here too because I don't feel hassled as much as before. This weekend I hope to explore the city more, and check out the lakes and temples on the hills surrounding the city.
One more thing. I had my longest Hindi conversation yet. It was today in a group taxi with a woman who had a gnarly front gold tooth. She pretty much sat on top of me, and then introduced herself. Once I proceeded to tell her my name, she reached for my leg, and started rubbing my tattoo. Then another lady joined in and was touching me. Strange, but I couldn't stop smiling. I managed to tell them where I got it, where I am from, where I work, and asked about their day. Then after about a minute, I was out of sentences. They didn't seem to mind and started talking more Hindi, so all I did was nod, and say 'tik hai' (means 'ok').
By the end of this month stay, I think I should be up to a two minute conversation.

Goa

Time for an update:
I am at my last day of class in the MSID building. We are just basically doing some last minute prepping for the internships. I leave tomorrow morning at 7:30 for Udaipur. Time has flown by, and the program is over in less than a month and a half. I am not sure about the internet availability, so posts may be more sporadic than they already are. Still no cellphone, I am going to try and manage. I guess I'm the only student without one, but I've survived this far.

Ok, on to the more exciting stuff: Goa. This is a magical place, and now I know where people go when they don't return from India. The atmosphere is Goa is so laid back. We arrived to a cute little hotel back in the woods. It was quaint, and Carly and I shared our room with geckos and a frog. Crawly creatures don't seem to bother me as much anymore. I've accepted that they are going to be living with me, so I don't bother them, and hopefully they won't jump on my face while I'm sleeping.

The Arabian Sea was a five minute walk from our hotel. There are beautiful beaches everywhere, which we could walk to, and then take a break at the beach shack for some beers and good food. We were beach bums pretty much all three days. My favorite beach was called "Spaghetti Beach." It has a large Italian population, and we made friends with an Italian hippie. He had been coming to Goa for the past 30 years, and had some great stories.

Holi was crazy cool. Me and Maggie rented a scooter, and everytime we would get caught in a traffic jam, kids would pelt us with color. I threw away three shirts and a pair of pants. My body is still stained with purple and pink color.
We went out dancing after the sun was gone. We had so much fun, and got to see dj's on the beach.

Our personal driver, Nani made sure we made it home safe every night. He was crazy, old, and kinda creepy, but was entertaining. I tried not to look at his eyes, as they were permanently bloodshot- I didn't ask questions, and we made it to our destinations.

So, I took some of my favorite pictures in Goa. However, I have ADD on planes, and was messing with my camera, I managed to accidentally delete over 100 pictures. So, the only ones left are from my little camera, and are of us girls at the clubs in the evening. I promise we actually did more than that.
Ok, gotta run finish up last minute paperwork. I'll write more later.

Jaipur

I realized I haven't posted a picture of my homestay family. So, there it is. The picture was taken at the wedding a couple weeks ago.

Now that I am finally starting to get used to the city, I'm leaving. It's a crazy place, and I'm thankful I've survived crossing the chaotic streets. Just when there were times when I thought I was gonna be smashed by a rickshaw or scooter, some divine intervention kept me alive. I still gawk at the elephants, camels, and overloaded jeeps with people hanging off the top, and the side (completely true). Even entire families, with groceries, fit on scooters. Child safety seats are nonexistent here. Every type of vehicle and work animal is on the same road. The biggest or one with the least to lose always has the right of way.
Tonight, a group of us went to the second Bollywood movie in three days. The dancing in these movies is so cheesily amazing to watch! I pretty much have no idea what they are saying, but go for the pictures, music, and simosas. Here's a taste (from the Billu Barber movie):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVfX2-oem98
Me and Carly walked up the road to meet friends to go to the movie. They were easy to pick out because there were about six auto rickshaws, five bikes, and a guy with a horse surrounding them. It's quite a scene anytime we need transportation. The first price quoted is always outrageously high, and I've learned to counter with a ¼ of the price. After some haggling, and walking away, they always follow and accept the offer. We opted for the horse taxi- this was a first. The driver was trying to impress us by whipping the horse to go faster, then he tried to get me to hold the reins. Umm, that was uncomfortable. I realized the other day when Carly said, “What the F@#k” to something random, and then it occurred to me that we have those moments at least three times a day. The horse ride was one of those moments.
I'm so used to bargaining, that I'm nervous I'll try to do it with taxis back home. It would be nice to get a better deal on the cab ride home from the bar, then stop to haggle for that bean and cheese burrito from Taco Bell.
Ah, one more story: we got a call Saturday that the 'piercing walla' was at our friends house. 'Wallas' are guys that walk up and down streets and shout out what goods they have to sell. I've seen mostly veggie guys, and some guy selling snake oil. Me and Carly went over to our friends house, and there were already a few friends sitting, waiting to get pierced. I guess he's pretty well known in the neighborhood, and some of the girls were brave enough to try his skills out. I think I'm done piercing all I want to pierce, so I was a spectator. Carly got her third ear piercing, Carolynn got her nose done, and Maggie got her upper lip pierced. This guy was old school, and just had a needle he cleaned, then he bent the metal with a not-so-new looking pliers once the piercing was through the skin. It was a little hard to watch. Nobody has infections yet, so maybe he knows what he's doing. Maggie is in the picture below.

This is the last week of classes, and after Holi, we are off to the internship sites. Many students are staying in or around Jaipur.
The program I will be working with is seven hours south in Udaipur. The organization is called ASTHA (www.astha.org). They run training sessions (literacy and other issue-based courses) for rural women. Once these women are trained, they then go back to their villages to teach other women. They are basically 'paying forward' the empowerment techniques they've picked up to educate other women. I'm super excited about the opportunity and ready to get started. Hopefully my choppy Hindi won't be too big of a hindrance. Usually the best way to learn a language is to be immersed in it, and I should get some good practice.
Holi is going to be celebrated in Goa. I'm headed there with five others on Sunday, and staying until Thursday. This Hindu holiday is a celebration of spring, and has something else to do with the gods- but I don't really know much about that. It's pretty much a big party where paint is thrown all over. We plan to get some squirt guns and fill them when we're down there. Goa is on the southwestern coast, and is a big beach destination. I'm ready for some sand and sea, and can't wait to kick back for five days. Swimsuits and dresses are acceptable, so the atmosphere should be more comfortable. It's a great opportunity to practice some Bollywood dances. This could get interesting.

The picture below was taken in Rishikesh on the Ganges. These are the girls I'm headed to Goa with.